Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Sheikh Zayed Mosque

There is something to be said about mosques in the Middle East or the Levant region - there is a lot of time, effort and money spent on designing, constructing and maintaining them. Though that's true in equal measure for many churches.. and erm...temples ... and... :-)


However, I guess, in case of Islam, unlike Hinduism, much of the religion is closely linked to a mosque. I remember a Muslim friend in Cairo telling me that Muslims are enjoined to offer Salat or prayers in a congregation in a mosque, though in case of an inability to reach a mosque they can be performed anywhere. Historically, mosques have served not only as places of worship but social, political and cultural centres. In fact as I understand, in countries like Pakistan, Iran and Iraq, political subjects are regularly preached by Imams after Friday prayers, but this is entirely what I have heard from others and def not seen/heard for myself. Schools or madrasas are typically attached to large mosques etc.

So it is only natural, that a lot of thought, time, money and effort goes into their design and construction, and, I have seen some really beautiful ones in my travels across the Levant. Which is why I was very keen to see the Sheikh Zayed mosque in Abu Dhabi!

The first look as you drive upto the mosque is breathtaking, the purity of the white marble giving it a pristine ethereal look..

The building of the mosque was initiated by the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. whose final resting place is also within the mosque compound.


Women cannot enter the compound without an abaya so there is a small room by the entrance where two fairly aggressive ladies dole out the abayas. Since I was going to wear one anyways, figured I'd go the whole hog, and asked one of them to show me how to wear the headgear, much the way the other local women were wearing. She stopped for one very loooong minute, I suspect to figure if I was acting smart, then thought otherwise, imperiously beckoned me closer and twirled the headscarf around in a jiffy! The only problem was that I looked like one old Egyptian mama! Need to loose weight, desperately, grrr!

Ah, but I am deviating!

In line with everything else in Dubai / Abu Dhabi, the mosque has the "largest / biggest" adjectives replete in many aspects of its design.

Valued at $8.2 million, the carpet that covers the floor of the main prayer hall is the largest in the world containing 2.3 million knots, made in Iran and stitched together on site by artisans flown in especially for this.

The largest of the 3 chandeliers in the main prayer hall, incorporating million of Swarovski crystals, is the second largest known chandelier inside a mosque, the third largest in the world


The main dome’s outer shell measures approx 33 metres in diameter and stands at a height of 70 metres - the largest of its kind, according to the Turkey Research Centre for Islamic History and Culture.



The one thing that did take my breath away was Qibla wall containing 99 names of Allah. Scripted in Kufi calligraphy, beautifully illuminated with very subtle fibre optic lighting, I thought the wall was extremely serene. Strange thing to call a wall, but honestly, I found a lot more peace an serenity in that wall than I did in the entire mosque.



The internal walls of the mosque, esp the western ones, have delicate decorative gold-glass mosaic features...

...and honestly I loved walking over the floral designed marble in the courtyard.




The main door of the mosque I believe weighs over 2 tonnes!



I believe the design of the Sheikh Zayed Mosque has been inspired by both Mughal and Moorish mosque architecture, particularly the Badshahi Mosque in Lahore and the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca being direct influences. Unfortunately, I have not seen either, so don't really know the extent of influence.

One of the most beautiful parts of the mosque for me were the water bodies around the mosque in which the pillars are effected. I am sure at night, when the mosque is all lit up, the effect would be even more spectacular!






The mosque is beautiful in parts, very imposing and obviously a labour of some one's vision, determination and will and is spectacular in its breadth of vision architecturally. Spiritually, I am sure it is as well for those who gather here to offer prayers for they understand much better and feel much more the faith that resonates within its pristine walls...

However, somehow for me, it felt a little less spiritual than some of the other mosques that I have seen. Maybe it was the light and sound systems being set up in the courtyard of the mosque for a Red Crescent party, or maybe it was just me .. but if you are in the UAE, I think its a must see, and, I dont think my nebulous feeling should, in any way, take away from its virginal, seemingly untouched grandeur!


































Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Art & the Arab world

Surprisingly an interesting papers that I read every morning is one that gets delivered free every morning at my doorstep, and, is sometimes, relegated to the dustbin even without having been read!

I am talking about 7 Days.

Though my mom-in-law insists that its the more interesting paper than my Gulf News and I think if you are looking for "interesting news" that might just be the paper :-) However, on this one day, I happened to be flipping through it over breakfast and came across a write-up on an art exhibition in Pro Art gallery of artists across the Arabic world - from Egypt, Tunisia, Morocco etc.. and the couple of images that were displayed, caught my fancy, so decided that I would go see it. It helped that I had a friend visiting who is an artist, and all it needed was the two of us to ensure that we did end up going!

Hunting for the new Sunset Mall (where the gallery is housed) is another story, but when we did find it, I was really glad that we had made the effort! I do buy Indian art and this was so different from the forms or abstract art that one sees from the sub-continent.

I was fascinated by the ink on paper work of Asal Fallah. A young Iranian artist, she specialises in black pen on cardboard and has this fascinating series called My World, pieces from which were on display. She's obviously a prolific and well known painter in his part of the world, cos when I googled her, Google turned in responses from varied art galleries. The fine detailing and the intricacy of the work plus my weakness for black and white, made it irresistible. And she wasn't that outrageously priced I think. Unfortunately the one I wanted to buy was sold out.



The other artist whom I found interesting was Abdallah Akar from Tunisia, whose career has been focussed on the script and who now teaches at the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris. Very interesting mix of calligraphy superimposed on a painted background. I am fascinated by Arabic calligraphy - I think the script is beautiful. So was very tempted to buy. Unfortunately, the price tag was in the range of Dhs 110,000-120000. And I am still not sure how to figure whether I should be paying an "x" amount for a artist in this region cos I am not really familiar with them. But I loved the paintings!

But the thing that fascinated me most were two very interesting sculptures by Radomir Barta and Peter Matters, just for the sheer ingenuity & creativity!

Radomir Barta, I understand, is a well known sculptor, designer and art blacksmith who has also been entrusted with the ask of designing three 15 m high Arabian Oryxes for the Pearl project in Qatar. The use of metal with fibre glass is fascinating - a mix between elegant flowing lines and something just out of a science fiction. The horse was fascinating and outrageously priced :-)

and the eagle was intriguing for its form and the intricate detailing and the material used. I would have loved to buy either of them , but when you don't know who or what you are buying, forking out US $ 100,000 is an impossible call!

And while I mention it last, the entrance of the gallery was guarded by a fierce lion, the work of a Peter Matter - oops I am not sure if I got his last name right. Very interesting!


But the pièce de résistance of the show for me was a Morroccon artist Lalla Essaydi. The art on display was photographic, part of a series labelled "Night of Henna". It was fascinating cos it combined the art of calligraphy, which in Islam is banned for women or is essentially a man's art form used essentially to write works from the Quran, with henna patterns which are traditionally a women's domain! She uses variations in the size, shape, strength of henna patterns to create and define shapes.




While these works are interesting, googling Lalla threw up some really interesting works, where she has modified photographs of women taken in her anscestral home with personal musings in Arabic calligraphy executed in henna.. they're beautiful!. I would love to own one of these if I could find one!


The gallery has sent me an invite for an exhibition on Street Art Legends - am definately going to be seeing it!

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

A winter's delight!

The weather has been spectacular the last 2-3 days. Cold, crisp air, with cloudy skies, ideal weather for a hot cuppa and some fried pakoras.. It's at times like this that I am so glad that I have a garden where I can sit and enjoy these simple pleasures.

Was driving to town yesterday, when the sheer majesty of the skyline struck me.

Dark clouds hovering over needle like buildings soaring into the sky - almost like a battle between these man made structures, proud and erect challenging nature and the dark angry clouds standing guard, daring these structures to breach their sanctum sactorum!

Picture book pretty!



  

Thursday, January 5, 2012

The Gold Souk -

What's the one thing that Dubai has been famous for almost all through it's recent history? Even when it wasn't this thriving, modern glass metropolis? It's Gold Souk of course! Dubai has been synonymous with gold, at least in the Indian sub-continent, and, I suspect everywhere else too. So it was natural, that when we have visitors, we take them to see the gold souk.


I last remember coming to the Gold Souk in 1992, when I had come to Dubai on work, and of course, the Gold Souk had been recommended as a must see. I remember walking through alleys lined on either side with shops with gold glittering in the windows. I have a distinct recollection of horses made of solid gold, which I think successfully put me off buying any gold on that trip - tragically of course, given that gold prices are now practically unaffordable!

Located in the heart of Dubai's commercial district Diera - the idyllic way to reach the Souk is to go to Bur Dubai and take the Abra (local boats) to the Souk. I think its barely a 10 min journey in toto, and, a very enjoyable one!

Purportedly, at any time, there is about 10 tons of gold in the Souk in every conceivable form - from rings, necklaces to bracelets, coins and bars! The stratospheric price of gold seems to have done away with the horses though, sigh!The mind boggles, at even comprehending the value of all that gold! India of course, is Dubai's largest buyer of gold, so it isn't a surprise that many of the shopkeepers are of Indian origin!

The place is atmospheric with show window after show window dressed in glittering gold, and you have the option of choosing modern designs from known names like ARY, Damas etc or more traditional stuff from smaller retailers. I have been told that you can haggle, but not having bought anything so far, don't really know!




Over the past few years, a number of shops have sprung up by the side selling "fake" watches and leather goods! We had someone show us fake watches ranging from Cartier to Rolex to Phillip Patek!


There is a Gold & Diamond Park on Sheikh Zayed Road, which I understand is cheaper than the Gold Souk and any design that you want can be easily replicated by the craftsmen there, but I think the Gold Souk is worth a visit, not only to buy gold, but to soak in the atmosphere and take a look at what's been such an integral part of Dubai's history!

Route to the Gold Souk by road

1.Take Al Wasl Road and continue down the road, past the New Gold Souk. Alernately, you can take Sheikh Zayed Road and take Exit 51 and use that exit to go on to Al Wasl Road (exit in the direction of Jumeirah)

2. Keep left in the direction of Shindhaga tunnel (see signs), the road turns right.

3. Enter the tunnel, and, take the 1st right after the tunnel, do a u-turn and continue tillyou reach Al Maha hotel.

4. There is a sign for Damas jewellers immediately after Al Maha hotel, take left at this sign.

5. The Gold Souk is in front of you!

Route to the Gold Souk by Metro

1. Take the metro on the red line going towards Jaflia. (I would board at MOE). Get off at  Khalid bin Waleed metro station.

2. Change from red to green line on the metro.

3. Take the green line metro going towards Etisalat station

4. Get down at Palm Diera station.

5. From here the Gold Souk is walking distance.

Route to the Gold Souk by Metro & Abra

1. Take the metro on the red line going towards Jaflia. (I would board at MOE). Get off at Khalid bin Waleed metro station.

2. Change from red to green line on the metro.

3. Take the green line metro going towards Etisalat station

4. Get down at Ghubaiba station

5. From here walk (10 mins)or take a taxi to the Abra station that will drop you to the Gold Souk. 

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Route to the Dubai International Airport

Have just inadvertantly deleted the route to Dragon Mart from my phone, so have decided to post the routes I do know here, as a ready reckoner for me, and for any poor soul who might stumble on this. Living close to Sheikh Zayed Road (SZR), my reference points are always from SZR!

1. Get on to E11 (Sheikh Zayed Road ) going towards Dubai/ Sharjah

2. Keep to the three left most lanes on SZR (2nd from the left is ideal)

3. Continue till you reach the Trade centre tunnel & go though it - the lane that you are in, will take you through the tunnel.

4. Keep to the left most 2 lanes so that you continue towards Al Garhoud with Lamcy Plaza on your left.

5. Continue moving straight in the same lanes, till you see Wafi Mall on your left, then move right to the 4th lane, you will start to see signs showing Garhoud Bridge.

6. Climb the bridge, keep to the 2nd or 3rd lane from the right. Leave the last lane on the right. This will take you to Festival City.

7. Get down the bridge, take the right fork in the road,and then immediately after that the left fork. Actually, its quite simple, the overhead signage clearly shows the way to Al Garhoud and the airprot.

8. Continue straight in the middle lane. You will pass Rotana Hotel on your right.

9. Move to the right lane. When you come to the Cargo Village signal (you can see a big Emirates Flight Catering sign in front of you to the right) turn right. You will start to see signage for Terminal 3 and 1. Choose the one you need to go to!

Monday, January 2, 2012

Route Planners

Having driven through England with immense help from AA Route Planner, have been looking round for something similar for the UAE.

I am map challenged so the GPS is a complete no-no, God alone knows I need help with directions esp when I head towards Diera, Gold Souk, Spice Souk etc - all touristy places and with friends and family over, I inevitably end up taking cabs cos I am clueless how to get there. Just the other day, wanted to drive to Mirdiff City centre to get my son to see an acrobat show - it was an unmitigated disaster! We drove to somewhere in the wilderness, I suspect to en route to one of the other Emirates, when hubby decided he was not upto a trip to Al-Ain, Fujiarah or wherever it was that I was headed!

Have googled, and googled, with some luck.

The RTA UAE website does offer something called Wojhati which is a route planner if you are planning to use public transport. A good guide, but of a limited use from my perspective unless like the early pillion riders, I do a reconnaissance trip prior to going to place. Nah, too much stress and effort.

Wojhati

While googling, came across the following aricle published by Gulf News that tells you how to use Google Maps to get round UAE.

Gulf News

I beleive Dubai (for some strange reason spelt Dubbay) is also on MapQuest .

MapQuest

Also this one was quite helpful!

Nokia Maps

I guess all of these suffer from the same problem - an everchanging route / road landscape in Dubai. A roundabout yesterday, a signal today! Roads appear and dissappear faster than you can remember routes, :-) rendering any mapping system fairly confusing. But the three above are quite useful to get a general sense of direction.